Hey folks, ever found yourself stuck in the urban jungle of Tokyo, dreaming of a steamy escape? Yeah, been there. I recently took the plunge—literally—and headed to Kusatsu and Beppu, two of Japan’s most famous onsen towns. Let me tell you, it was an experience that hit all the senses and then some.
The Steamy Streets of Kusatsu
Picture this: I step off the bus in Kusatsu, and the first thing that hits me is the sulfurous aroma wafting through the crisp mountain air. It’s like Mother Nature herself decided to brew a giant cup of egg salad. But don’t let that scare you off. It’s kind of like how durian smells terrible but tastes divine. The air is cold, but the steam rising from every nook and cranny makes it feel like the town is perpetually wrapped in a warm, cozy blanket.
The Yubatake, or ‘hot water field’, is the heart and soul of Kusatsu. This massive wooden structure channels scalding water directly from the earth, cooling it down for public baths. Watching the hot water cascade is almost hypnotic. I could have stood there all day, just zoning out. But hey, I had a mission—those baths weren’t going to soak themselves!
Dipping My Toes in Beppu
Next stop, Beppu. Now, if Kusatsu is the quaint, charming sibling, Beppu is the wild child of the onsen world. This place has a whopping seven hells, or ‘jigoku’, which are basically hot springs you can’t bathe in because they’re, well, hellishly hot. But they’re still a sight to behold.
One of my favorites was the Umi Jigoku, or ‘Sea Hell’, with its mesmerizing cobalt blue waters. It looked inviting enough to dive right in, but unless you’re a fan of human poaching, I’d advise against it. Instead, I settled for a sand bath. Imagine being buried up to your neck in warm sand, feeling the heat seep into your bones. It’s like a massage from the earth itself.
Embracing the Onsen Etiquette
Now, a word of advice for fellow travelers. Onsen culture comes with its own set of rules. You’ve got to wash up before you dip in, and unlike my morning showers, this isn’t the time to sing your heart out. Silence and serenity are the name of the game. And yes, tattoos can be a bit of a no-no in some places, though thankfully more onsens are becoming tattoo-friendly.
Also, be prepared to experience some intense relaxation. Seriously, after my first soak, I felt like my bones had turned to jelly. It was a struggle to drag myself out of the water, but in the best way possible.
So next time you’re feeling the city blues, remember there’s a whole world of hot springs out there waiting to melt your stress away. Why not plan a trip, take the plunge, and embrace the steamy side of Japan?

